Tag: garden

Teaching Kids to Love Gardening

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The kids love the giant rhubarb leaves.

When I was little, my family had several small garden plots, each about 4 feet by 4 feet, all in a row and bordered with long square wooden posts.  Each of the kids in the family got a plot to themselves to grow whatever they wanted.  My sister, Anna, grew pumpkins one year.  And I remember growing a mix of wildflowers. I think my sister, Becca, liked to grow carrots.  Most years we would simply grow whatever vegetable we felt like in the moment.  We always had at least one family plot for bush beans, and it was our job, as kids, to pick them.  We never liked picking beans, but we always loved tending our own plots and watching our vegetables or flowers grow.

Luci loves to help move the flower pots around.

It was a simple thing, but it turned work in to pleasure.  Now I’m all grown up, but I still feel like a kid who gets to design and grow whatever she wants each spring.

Double eggplant and other odd shaped vegetables are always a fun find.

There’s something magical about taking care of a garden that will then take care of you.  Here are a few ways to involve the kiddos in that magic:

  • Let them plant with you.  You can make the hole, and the kids can put the seed in.
  • Let kids pick and eat veggies from the garden for snack time.
  • Have the kids help look for and collect potatoes when you dig them up.  It’s like finding a hidden treasure!
  • Make a little garden plot for each child where they can grow and tend whatever they want.
  • Ask the children to choose a veggie from the garden to eat with your meal.
  • Have the children paint rocks or sticks to use as garden markers.
I plant orange, yellow, purple and white carrots. Not because I prefer rainbow carrots, but because the kids love picking colorful carrots.

My Grandad used to have a beautiful strawberry patch.  He would tell us to go pick some strawberries and we’d ask “where should we put them?”  He’d say “in your breadbasket,” which was code for “stomach.”

We don’t preserve many peas on my homestead because the kids like to eat all of them from the vine!

I have great memories as a child in the garden.  And now I get to share my love of gardening with my nephews and niece, and they’re loving it, too.  What ways are you teaching the kids in your life to love the garden?

DIY Pallet Composting System

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You can never have enough compost, right? That stuff is garden gold! The thing is, it takes lots of time to get your compost heap from start to finish. And if you keep adding things to it, it’ll just mean that you start over again from the beginning. The key is to have a composting system that allows for two or more heaps so that they can be at different stages in the composting process.

Before we get in to the system, let’s discuss a few key elements that will ensure your composting success:

Materials

Compost should include a variety of material, both green and brown. Green materials are things like fruit and vegetable waste, grass clippings and animal manure, which are nitrogen rich and provide lots of protein for your compost. Brown materials include dead leaves, hay, straw, wood shavings and cardboard. Brown materials provide energy, meaning they are food for the microbes that will be breaking down your compost and turning it in to garden gold. Naturally, the smaller the size of your compost materials, the faster they will break down, so consider shredding boxes or paper, mowing over leaves to cut them up, and breaking garden waste in to smaller pieces.

Moisture

Your compost pile needs to be watered to stay alive. Consider keeping it in the shade so the sun won’t dry it out, and/or keep it covered with plastic. Alternatively, if you have a very wet summer, you might consider covering your system with a piece of plywood to keep it from getting too wet.

Size

The ideal size for a compost heap is about 3 cubic feet. Compost generates heat as it breaks down, which is a necessary component of the process. If your heap is smaller than 3 feet tall, wide and deep, it might not get hot enough. Going bigger than 3 cubic feet won’t hurt, though going too big will make the next part difficult, which is…

Turning

Your compost heap needs to be turned regularly. Mixing will introduce air in to the living pile and help it break down. If you want to make the process as quick as possible, turn your pile weekly. This will give it time to heat up between turns. The ideal temp to look for is 140-160 degrees Fahrenheit.

The DIY System:

Materials:
5 wood pallets
Nails or wire ties (such as electric fence wire)

Instructions:
Place two pallets on end, in a row and secure with wire ties or nails.
Place remaining three pallets on end and perpendicular to the first two, one on either end and one in the center. Secure with wire ties or nails.

And that’s it! I built my composting system against a garden fence, but you could place yours against a shed, or if it needs to be freestanding, you might consider pounding some posts to secure it to.


As you can see, I use one section of my system for a hotbed. The bottom of the hotbed is hot, un-composted manure, so next year I’ll mix and remove the compost on that side. When I removed the material from last years hotbed this Spring, the horse manure had broken down very nicely! This year I’m using chicken manure and straw, so we’ll see how it looks next Spring; it may return to the compost pile. Although my composting system is a nice place for a hotbed, I’d really like another place for a compost pile! I think I’ll build on another section to my system. And that’s part of the beauty! You can customize and make 10 sections, if you have the space and materials. Let me know if you try it out! Happy composting!

No Dig Gardening

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The No Dig Method of gardening is something I learned from Charles Dowding on his Youtube channel. It’s excellent, you should check it out! As the name implies, you plant your garden without digging or tilling.

Benefits of No Dig Gardening

Under the soil is a metropolis of life. Microbes and earthworms and all manner of healthy soil lie undisturbed. Once you till or dig or turn that soil, the microbial life breaks down and your soil loses health.

Soil erosion is the movement and loss of topsoil. By tilling, you are causing soil to deteriorate. Let’s remember that we need to feed the soil, not the plants in order for our gardens to feed us. Tilling is taking away from the soil, not feeding it.

Also among the soil under our feet lies a bunker full of weed seeds! Most people think that tilling will help eradicate weeds, but this is a misconception. Tilling, digging or turning your garden soil will not help with weed control. Indeed, you will find yourself pulling more weeds when the seeds are woken up.

How to Start a No Dig Garden

Supplies:
Cardboard, newspapers or paper bags
Compost

Directions:
Lay at least one layer of cardboard, paper bags or newspapers four pages thick where you want your garden bed to be. Be sure there are no cracks or grass or weeds will come through. Then cover the newspaper or cardboard with at least 6 inches of compost. Then plant away!

Roots will be able to penetrate the cardboard, so don’t be concerned about restriction. If your compost was processed correctly, at a high enough temperature, you shouldn’t need to worry about weeds more than a few here and there. If your compost does have weed seeds in it, you’ll want to mulch. I recommend mulching with old hay (the more rotted the better), because it breaks down wonderfully and continues to feed your garden.

This is the “before” picture. I decided to plant popping corn opposite the raspberries.

Make sure you don’t use cardboard or newspaper that is glossy or shiny. This won’t break down.

I actually went in later and straightened out that far end a little more.

Here’s a load of composted horse manure that I used. This spent the last year composting and is now ready to feed my garden.

Apart from the excellent vegetables, my favorite part about the no dig method is that when faced with the question “paper or plastic” I always choose paper, knowing that it will benefit my garden and keep a little less plastic out of the landfills. Also, not breaking my back trying to strong-arm the tiller is a plus!

Charles Dowding has experimented with identical planting of two beds, side by side: One with the no dig method and one with tilling. His results show better yields with the no dig garden bed. Even if the results were the same, why wouldn’t you choose less work over the alternative? If you’ve tried a no dig garden, let us know how it worked for you!

Companion Planting for Happy Plants

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Companion planting refers to strategically mingling plants with others that will support their growth and not hinder it. Reasons to companion plant include:

Organic Pest Management. Some plants will deter the pests that damage others.

Increase Pollination. Flowering plants will attract the insects necessary for the pollination of their friends. These flowering plants could also attract the beneficial insects that deter harmful insects.

Protection. Some plants will cast shade over friends who don’t fare well in full sun. Others appreciate protection from the wind and elements.

Improved Yield. It is said that some plants produce more abundant or more flavorful crops when planted near friends. The opposite can also be said, so avoid planting near enemies. Some companions go well together because their preferred care is similar, ie. they require the same amount of water, soil, sun, etc.

Asparagus
Friends: Aster, Basil, Cilantro, Marigolds, Nasturtiums, Oregano, Parsley, Peppers, Sage, Thyme
Enemies: None.

Basil
Friends: Tomatoes, Asparagus, Oregano, Peppers
Enemies: None.

Broad Beans
Friends: Not picky.
Enemies: Onions

Bush and Pole Beans
Friends: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Carrots, Celery, Swiss Chard, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Peas, Potatoes, Radishes, Strawberries.
Enemies: Chive, Garlic, Leeks, Onions, Marigolds, Beets (Bush Beans are ok near Beets)

Soya Beans
Friends: Corn
Enemies: None.

Beets
Friends: Bush Beans, Corn, Garlic, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Leeks, Lettuce, Mint.
Enemies: Pole Beans.

Brassicas (Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip)
Friends: Chamomile, Rosemary, Sage, Dill, Mint, Nasturtium.
Enemies: Eggplant, Peppers, Potatoes, Tomatoes.

Carrots
Friends: Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Chives, Leeks, Onions, Peas, Peppers, Pole Beans, Radishes, Rosemary, Sage, Tomatoes.
Enemies: Dill, Parsnips, Potatoes.

Celery
Friends: Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Cucumber, Garlic, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Tomatoes
Enemies: None.

Chives
Friends: Carrots, Tomatoes, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip.
Enemies: Beans, Peas.

Cilantro
Friends: Potatoes.
Enemies: None

Collards
Friends: Tomatoes.
Enemies: None.

Corn
Friends: Amaranth, Beans, Beets, Cucumber, Dill, Melons, Parsley, Peas, Potato, Soya Beans, Squash, Sunflower
Enemies: Celery, Tomatoes

Cucumber
Friends: Asparagus, Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Celery, Corn, Dill, Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radish, Tomatoes, Nasturtium.
Enemies: Potatoes, Sage.

Dill
Friends: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Corn, Cucumber, Lettuce, Onion.
Enemies: Carrots, Tomatoes

Eggplant
Friends: Amaranth, Beans, Marigolds, Peas, Peppers, Spinach, Thyme.
Enemies: Fennel


Fennel
Friends: Doesn’t play well with others.
Enemies: Beans, Kohlrabi, Tomatoes, nearly all others.

Garlic
Friends: Roses, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Celery, Lettuce, Potatoes, Strawberries, Tomatoes.
Enemies: Peas, Beans.

Kohlrabi
Friends: Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Cucumbers, Onions.
Enemies: Peppers, Pole Beans, Strawberries, Tomatoes.

Leeks
Friends: Beets, Celery, Carrots, Onions, Spinach.
Enemies: Beans, Peas.


Lettuce
Friends: Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Carrots, Celery, Chervil, Cucumbers, Dill, Garlic, Onion, Radish, Spinach, Squash, Strawberries.
Enemies: None.

Melon
Friends: Corn, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pumpkin, Radish, Squash, Sunflowers.
Enemies: Potatoes

Mint
Friends: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip. Note: Mint is invasive, so consider planting it in containers and/or spreading the cut leaves around the brassicas.
Enemies: Parsley

Onions
Friends: Chamomile, Summer Savory, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Carrots, Dill, Leeks, Lettuce, Strawberries, Tomatoes.
Enemies: Asparagus, Peas.

Oregano and Marjoram
Friends: Asparagus, Basil, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip
Enemies: None.


Parsley
Friends: Asparagus, Carrots, Chives, Corn, Onions, Tomatoes. Sprinkle leaves around Asparagus and Roses.
Enemies: Mint


Peas
Friends: Beans, Carrots, Celery, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Peppers, Potatoes, Radish, Spinach, Strawberries, Turnips.
Enemies: Onions


Peppers
Friends: Asparagus, Basil, Carrots, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Endive, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Squash, Swiss Char, Tomatoes.
Enemies: Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Fennel


Potatoes
Friends: Bush Beans, Celery, Corn, Garlic, Marigolds, Onions, Peas.
Enemies: Asparagus, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Carrots, Cucumber, Melons, Parsnips, Rutabaga, Squash, Sunflower.

Pumpkins
Friends: Corn, Pole Beans, Melons, Squash, Sunflowers.
Enemies: Beets, Onions, Potatoes, Carrots, Turnips.

Radish
Friends: Nasturtiums, Beans, Beets, Celeriac, Chervil, Cucumber, Lettuce, Mint, Parsnip, Peas, Spinach, Squash, Tomatoes.
Enemies: Agastache (aka Anise Hyssop), Potatoes.

Rosemary
Friends: Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Carrots.
Enemies: None.

Sage
Friends: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip.
Enemies: Cucumbers.

Spinach
Friends: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Eggplants, Leeks, Lettuce, Peas, Radish, Strawberries.
Enemies: Potatoes

Squash
Friends: Corn, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Radish, Borage, Marigolds, Nasturtiums, Sunflowers.
Enemies: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Potatoes,

Strawberries
Friends: Beans, Borage, Garlic, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Spinach, Thyme
Enemies: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Fennel

Summer Savory
Friends: Beans, Onions.
Enemies: None.

Swiss Chard
Friends: Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Onions.
Enemies: None.

Thyme
Friends: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Strawberries.
Enemies: None.

Tomatoes
Friends: Nasturtiums, Asparagus, Basil, Beans, Borage, Carrots, Celery, Chives, Collards, Cucumber, Garlic, Lettuce, Marigolds, Mint, Onion, Parsley, Peppers.
Enemies: Dill, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Kale, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Corn, Potatoes.

Turnips
Friends: Mint, Peas.
Enemies: Pumpkins.

Remember to rotate your crops each year so that your soil maintains nutritional balance and to avoid soil borne diseases. Growing a garden doesn’t only require physical endurance, but mental agility, too! Finding a different garden layout each year can be a challenge, but hopefully this list of friends and enemies will help you create a garden full of happy plants!

Build a DIY Garden Hotbed for Free!

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Last summer I planted eggplants for the first time. Lucky for me I planted two varieties, because one of them didn’t grow. Here are the two varieties I planted:

The Early Long Purple Eggplants grew beautifully, and produced abundantly. They were delicious, especially lightly breaded and baked. But they were slender, and I wanted something more meaty. I’d like to try stuffing them, or maybe not having to bread and bake a million pieces the size of quarters, but instead just half a dozen pieces the size of saucers.

These Early Long Purple Eggplants are the ones I got:

These Black Beauty Eggplants are the ones I want:

Unfortunately, living in zone 3, our summer nights can still get pretty chilly. My Black Beauty Eggplants flowered, but then the flowers would fall off in the cold night. No flowers, no fruit. Since I’m not willing to move to a warmer zone, and an expensive hoop house or greenhouse just isn’t in the budget…. I made a hotbed! This should create a warmer environment for these cold sensitive plants.

Here’s how I built my hotbed for free:

Supply list:
3 or 4 pallets
Screws, nails or metal wire for tying pallets together
Cardboard boxes, broken down
Hot manure (horse, cow, chicken, rabbit, or llama will do)
Brown compost matter (such as leaves, straw or hay)
Composted soil

Instructions:
Start by screwing, nailing or tying the pallets together to form a large C, or if you want it to have four sides instead of three, you can make a square. I did three sides because I’m short and don’t want to reach up and over the hotbed to tend my plants.
Then line your three-sided pallet box with cardboard and fill about half full with hot manure and brown compost (I used dried leaves). Layer the manure and brown compost matter so you’ve got about one foot of manure, then an inch of brown compost, then a foot of manure, then an inch of brown compost. You can use a large piece of cardboard to act as a fourth side to help hold and shape the manure.
After your hotbed is about half full, pile on at least 18-24 inches of soil.
Then plant your eggplants on top and let the manure warm your little garden bed!

A hotbed can be used for any plants that love heat, or it can be used to extend your growing season by providing warmth for your plants. Once my eggplants are flowering, I can easily cover them with garden fleece from edge to edge of the hotbed when the evening forecasts are cold, which will be kinder to the plants than if the fleece were laying on top of them while they’re planted on the ground. The high sides of the pallets can also act as a bit of a windbreak, which will help keep my plants toasty and cozy.

What do you think? Will I have Black Beauty Eggplants this summer??? I’ll update you when I know!

Have you ever built a hotbed? How did it work for you? I’d love to hear about it in the comments!

Update!

At the end of the summer I had pretty, pretty Black Beauty Eggplants growing in my hotbed. It worked and it was so worth it.